No idea what NDP really does, and need to tune the in game settings of 5 and 1 along with the FF on wheel at 100. Tried the 8NM last night and with recommended settings it felt too heavy for me, but that might be an adjustment period coupled with tweaking settings. I couldn't believe how different (good different) the wheel felt on 5NM first session. I've mirrored the settings on this thread and candidly just need to spend more time with the game. The seating position wasn't great with PS Challenge, so solved that Tue night with a Next Gen Racing GT Track. GRAN TURISMO 7 PS4 PRO PROThe DD Pro arrived Monday and was blown away by first impression on 5NM. GRAN TURISMO 7 PS4 PRO PLUSSo I stretched and ordered the DD Pro, 5NM, plus 8NM boost and load cell. Superb wheel, but not cheap and somewhat older tech now. My local Microcenter had the Thrustmaster T248 in stock, but did not like the wheel (felt like a toy), and test drove the Thrustmaster T300 RS GT the past week. For the PS5, I went back and forth on G29 or G293. Coming from Forza Motorsport and F1 on XSX primarily, using a Logitech G920 and Playseat Challenge. Thanks!Īcquiring a PS5 coincided with GT7 release date - what a week its been. The physics engine in GT7 has become much more sensitive, difficult and realistic - simply more difficult and fun.įirst post - read every comment here and some great info. I was A+ in GT Sport and have no issues racing any car on the limit in GT7 without assists. Or, what are you supposed to feel? Is the FFB language in GT7 just supposed to be "intuitive"? I'm a bit surprised it's not explained anywhere what the different sensations mean. My settings are the recommended here but with lowered INT (1) and NDP (Off). In GT Sport, it was the same but loss of grip would be indicated by sudden loss of heaviness in the wheel. So, the wheel goes from very light on the straights, to communicative and jolting during turns, to perfectly smooth and heavy, to smooth and heavy and vibrating. So when it becomes smooth and heavy, you better be extremely gentle with inputs. All the way until that point, the wheel is moving around according to the G-forces (SoP effect) and suspension movements. It feels like the suspension has bottomed out or something and you only feel a perfectly smooth and heavy wheel. In a good race, you shouldn't have felt it at all.Īnother thing I've noticed - correct me if I'm wrong - is that the absolute edge of available grip feels like FFB clipping. When it starts vibrating, you've exceeded the available grip level way too far. If I let someone who doesn't do simracing try it, I increase the torque because they're insensitive to the sensations in the "language" mentioned above. And the more skilled I get, the less torque is optimal for going even faster. Personally, I find 100% at 8 Nm with a 28 cm silly. And even with very little torque, like 1-3 Nm, to me a Fanatec DD is still worth it since it's so much clearer and more detailed in communicating the FFB sensations than the competition. However, more torque is generally needed to compensate for increased leverage when using a bigger diameter wheel, which Fanatec has plenty of in stock. So yes, more torque isn't necessarily better. Unfortunately, many beginners read these threads. Instead, we have thousands of threads where men compete about who's most macho with their torque settings. GRAN TURISMO 7 PS4 PRO HOW TOYou need to understand this to understand how to set everything up and understand it. There's very little guidance on what FFB is, why different games have different FFB "languages" and what differs them, and what the different sensations in the different "languages" tell you about the car/handling/surface.
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